Materials are the main source of CO2 emissions from sneakers
Let's start with a definition of carbon footprint. It is the volume of CO2 generated by an object from the extraction of materials to their end of life. The unit of measurement chosen for CO2 emissions is the kilogram equivalent of CO2.
The materials used to manufacture the sneakers are the main source of CO2 emissions : 71% according to a study carried out on Veja's carbon footprint in 2019 by the Utopies agency specializing in sustainable development, compared to 3% for the assembly plant and 18.5% for transport.
This is why it is vital to seek to reduce the carbon impact of the materials from which sneakers are made. This is the objective pursued by Mood Walk in the design of its eco-responsible and vegan sneakers.
CO2 emissions generated by leather sneakers
Not everyone agrees on the extent of CO2 emissions generated by the leather used in shoemaking.
According to the same study carried out by the Utopies firm for Veja, 97% of CO2 emissions linked to the materials used are due to leather, the Utopies agency and Veja having decided to take into account emissions from farms to tanneries.
Regarding leather, the other materials used by Veja, namely B-Mesh, Hexamesh and Alveomesh or CWL, have a much lower impact. CWL, or Cotton Worked as Leather, is a vegan alternative to leather made from PU, corn starch and castor oil. It is a material similar to the one we use to make the Mood Walk eco-friendly sneakers and supplied by our partner Coronet.
ADEME has an approach that is the opposite of that of the Utopies research firm because this institute considers that animal skin is waste from the agri-food industry and therefore does not allocate any CO2 emissions to leather linked to the breeding and life of the animal.
However, the reasoning of not attributing any impact of livestock farming to leather does not seem correct to us. Without leather, the profitability of livestock farming would be lower and there would therefore probably be less livestock farming. Leather is not simply a co-product of the dairy and meat industry.
A European benchmark, the PEFCR (Product Environmental Footprint) calculates the share of CO2 emissions linked to leather based on the economic value of the hide. The PEFCR allocates 3.5% of the carbon footprint of the carcass to the hide. Others estimate that the hide represents up to 40% of the profit of a raised animal.
Whatever the calculation method chosen, there remains the subject of animal ethics with intensive breeding and for example feed lots or fattening parks with cows that receive growth hormones. Then comes the challenge of leather traceability. Even in the case of a tannery based in France, it is very difficult to guarantee that the skins used come from Europe and come from virtuous breeding that respects their animals. Finally, there remains the problem of leather tanning, still mainly carried out using chromium salts that are very polluting for our soils and rivers.
Our criteria for choosing our sustainable materials for our eco-responsible sneakers
For us, it was obvious to design eco-responsible low-carbon sneakers and thus minimize our impact on the planet.
This is why we have opted for ecological materials that are bio-sourced or made from recycled materials, whether for the main material that makes up the exterior of our sneakers or the soles, but also the lining.
Vegan leather sneakers made from cereals: the answer to environmental issues
The main material used for our Mood Walk sneakers is made from cereals and more specifically from non-food pesticide-free corn . There are several alternatives to leather that have a similar appearance but are eco-responsible. Often misused as “vegan leather”, these materials can be made from grape, apple, pineapple, cactus or corn waste. It is not strictly speaking “vegan leather” because the term leather is regulated by the consumer code. It is a material derived from animal skin. This confusion is linked to the fact that to the naked eye, when these bio-materials are well made, they look like leather.
For our part, we chose a bio-material from corn for its aesthetic properties, its comfort, its resistance, the fact that cereals grow in Europe and especially its share of organic materials which amounts to 78%, one of the highest proportions if not the highest on the market. Our material is approved by PETA and the USDA biobased product which estimates the percentage of bio-sourced materials or renewable materials. The manufacturing process is as follows: biopolyols are extracted from corn and mixed with polyurethane to form bio-PU which is then coated on cotton.
Our bio-material is manufactured in Italy by our partner Coronet, which is very committed to environmental policy with an increasing share of photovoltaic and renewable energy or the use of closed-circuit water to limit its consumption. Coronet produces 35% to 45% of the energy needed for its operation.
Corn lining: an ecological alternative for our vegan sneakers
The bio-material used for our lining (on steam bio eco) combines very attractive technical properties and a composition similar to that of the material used for the exterior of our vegan sneakers. It is composed of 60% bio-PU from corn. In terms of performance, it is particularly absorbent with an absorption time of 2 seconds compared to 33 minutes for an animal material and it is very resistant with during the tests a very high resistance to tearing and abrasion.
This material is low carbon, it emits 63% less CO2 than nylon and consumes 40% less energy . Like the rest of our materials, it comes from a nearby country, Spain.
A recycled rubber sole: a sustainable innovation for our eco-responsible sneakers
Our sole is made in Portugal by Combocal . It is made of rubber, partly recycled rubber , up to 20%. The other components of our eco-friendly sneakers are also vegan and made from organic or recycled materials. The laces are made from recycled cotton. Our removable sole is made from recycled foam and is covered with the same material as the corn-based lining.
In summary, we have really tried to reconcile ecology and style with eco-responsible, modern and trendy sneakers and the use of bio-sourced and recycled materials.
Now that you know all the details of our vegan sneakers, you can come and discover them on our shop where we offer 2 models: the Master Mind and theWild Walker